SEA Tour 06: Bangkok, Thailand

22 November 2010

We waited for forever at Arayanpharathet border for 
our bus going to Bangkok to pick us up.

Ages.

Border crossing in Thailand was a breeze.

Last leg of the trip

Missing Cambodia already..

Purchased a shawl at night market last night and cambodian coffee. and, as always, Leah was in her element. She even flirted with the girl at the gold store.

Happened to get a book at Bou Savy. Free! The Girl with the Dragon Tatoo. So nice..hehe

We're having lunch en route to KSR. With us is a japanese boy. So far, he told us he's a hairdresser..weird.

So, this is our last country. Bangkok, it is.

I immediately decided that Thais look a lot like Filipinos right after stepping on Thailand. It took us 6 hours to get to Bangkok from the border. The van dropped us at Khao San Road. I have no idea where we were so we flagged a cab (a pink one, that is), and showed him the map to our hotel.

Dinner that night was sweet pork with sticky rice. It was really good especially the pork except for the super spicy sauce that came with it. The meat itself was tasty, even without the sauce. I was egging Leah to ask the staff how the pork was cooked but they were already preparing to close.

sweet pork with sticky rice

We went out for a walk. Siam Paragon was just a few blocks so off we go. It wasn’t just any mall. I mean, I think it was just like SM for them but the state of the mall was way beyond, even the high-end malls we have here wasn’t up to par. We were worn out to check the night market within the area that’s why we chose to get back at the hotel and called it a night.

Siam Paragon

If I recall, this was also the night Leah and I got pissed off with each other. The long hour trips, the unending waiting hours in between, the frustration of being misunderstood by the locals and not to mention, staying stuck with one single person for the last seven days while going through with all of these finally took a toll on us. Someone raised a voice and soon after a cold war has begun which fortunately, soon ended up in the morning.

Our second day was our temple day, Grand Palace day. On our way to the BTS Skytrain, we passed Erawan shrine. We were treated to a traditional Thai dance. Erawan shrine is located right at the middle of business district. So, most people drop by here to say their morning prayers before going to work.

In 1956, the Erawan Shrine was built to eliminate the bad karma believed caused by laying the foundation of then government owned Erawan Hotel on a wrong foundation, which was later demolished and replaced by now Grand Hyatt Erawan Hotel.

Flowers sold outside the shrine for offering

The Thai dance troupe will pray for your petition in the form of a dance and a song

You didn’t go to Bangkok if you didn’t see the Grand Palace. And so, after a brief visit to Erawan shrine, we walked to the train station, boarded on the Chao Praya River Express, got off at Tha Chang Pier and after about 15 minutes, we were walking inside the Grand Palace. Public transportation was a breeze. Boy, were there a lot of tourists.

Fun Fact. One of the original royal services was the 'elephant department' charged with taking care of the King's elephants used for war and traveling around the country. Elephants have to be bathed frequently to keep happy, so the King's elephants were regularly lead down to the river for their baths. Today, if you travel to the Grand Palace by express boat, you alight at the Chang Pier. 'Chang' is the Thai word for elephant. The pier gets its name because the king's elephants used to bathe on the spot.

The entrance fee costs THB 350 and free for Thais. Hiring a tour guide was highly unlikely since we’ve got few bucks left so we chose to just eavesdrop on other group’s tour guide.

As we woke up late, the sun was shining ruthlessly upon us. We went on inside and marveled on the temples. Everywhere you lay your eyes upon, there’s gold. Every single structure was either studded with gold or embellished with precious stones. While I was in awe of the temples, Leah was taken on stripping off the embedded gold and stones on the temples and taking it home. Pinoy na pinoy.

Taking a break at Grand Palace Complex

Gold inlays Leah trying to peel off

Lotus flower. Commonly seen in Buddhist temples.

Locals put gold on Buddhas as a way of saying prayers. Same as ours offering our saints with flowers, etc.

The Angkor Wat Replica

Angkor Wat. The most sacred of all Cambodian shrines. The model was constructed as a reminder that the neighboring state was once under the dominion of Thailand.

Temple of the Emerald Buddha is the most revered Buddhist shrine in Thailand. It houses the Emerald Buddha, a dark green statue standing two feet tall. No one is allowed near the statue except the Thai king, who conducts rituals at the temple throughout the year. Note that the Emerald Buddha was called as such not because it is made of emerald (the stone) but by its color.

Emerald Buddha

Entrance to the Emerald Buddha

Guards lining the walls around the Temple of the Emerald Buddha

The Emerald Buddha is covered in a seasonal costume, which is changed three times a year to correspond to the summer (crown and jewelry), winter (gold shawl), and rainy months (gilt robe and headdress). The costume change is performed by the Thai king, who also sprinkles water over the monks and the faithful to bring good fortune during the upcoming season.

The Reclining Buddha

The reclining Buddha is representing the final passage into nirvana, which is the state of nothingness.

Soles of Buddha's feet is decorated with mother-of-pearl inlay

Put a coin in each of the 108 bowls (found at the back of the buddha) for good luck

After we saw all the temples inside the Grand Palace Complex, including the neighboring Reclining Buddha, we crossed the river from Ta Chang Pier to get to Wat Arun or Temple of Dawn.

From Ta Chang Pier, cross the river to get to Wat Arun

Wat Arun (The Temple of the Dawn) named after the Indian god of dawn, Aruna. The prang is a blend of Khmer and Thai style. Notice the steep stairs, similar to that of Angkor Wat, common to to Buddhist temple.

steep stairs, commonly seen in Buddhist temples

The famous Wat Arun sunset

Wat arun is entirely decorated of bits of Chinese porcelain and glazed ceramic tiles. In the early days of Bangkok, Chinese trading ships used tons of porcelain. The temple is just an early example of the Thai approach to "recycling."

porcelain Chinas

We simply rested on the grass observing other people and waited for the setting sun. Dead tired from roaming the temples, we got dinner a little later.

taking a break at Wat Arun

23 November 2010

Writing from the Temple of Dawn. Just waiting for the sunset so we can see BKK's skyline on our way back to the hotel. Seeing Grand Palace made me wonder why Thais put so much effort/money in their temples. Irony. Or Hypocrisy? You go inside and see the grandest temples you've ever seen and once you're outside, countless of children begging for alms. Poverty speaks to you everywhere.

We watched Harry Potter that night at Siam Paragon. Best cinema I've ever seen so far. Harry Potter was showing after every 15 minutes in all cinemas. There were only, I think, ten or less of us inside the cinema. Leah slept half of the movie because of all the walking we did that morning.

inside Siam Paragon Cinema Complex

outside the cinema, waiting

I was just slightly surprised when we were to stand to honor the king. You see, if our last cinema screenings would require you to stand up for the National Anthem, in Thailand, you are required the same but for the King. I can't still understand the fuss about their king. (I'm not supposed to say that)

We were to go to the floating market the next day but found it costs THB1,350. Too expensive for us. So we went to Dusit area. The other palace area we were not able to see yesterday.

If you purchased the Grand Palace ticket, the Dusit Area is included in it which can be use up to seven days. This got me excited about. We went there by bus. Take the Bus70 in front of National Stadium. The bus will stop in front of the Palace entrance.

By now, you might have notice that we rarely use taxis. Instead, we use the cheapest means of transportations there is. So far, we never had any problem.

Waiting for the train. Saphan Taksin Station.

A bit of history first.

King Rama V returned from a European tour in 1897 much impressed by the architecture of the palaces he saw. He purchased (on his own personal money) some farm land and ordered the construction of a garden which he christened Suan Dusit which means Celestial Garden which later be known as the Dusit Area. This would serve as their Summer House.

We first went to see the largest teakwood mansion, the Vimanmek Mansion. Free scheduled tours are available. Things are left at a locker and basically, we were touring the entire mansion barefooted.

The first permanent building was the Vimanmek Mansion. Apparently only wooden pegs were used to join the pieces of timber so the mansion can be moved easily. The original structure was actually brought from Cholburi province. The king had the building dismantled (thus explains the wooden pegs) and bought to Bangkok, where it was rebuilt as Vimanmek Mansion.

Vimanmek Mansion

As I was guided through the mansion, I thought Thailand’s Royal Family is the closest we have to the British colony. I have no idea that Thais value their royalty this much. It was even said that cursing or saying bad things against the King was unthinkable. Best to observe and respect their customs.

I was awed at the things the Royalty has. One particular was a gift bowl from China. This bowl turns black when the food served with it is poisoned. Amazing. There were separate stairs for the servant, the strategic placing of a one way mirror in the stairway, on which the King only sees the person in the waiting area and the extravagant toys (made of porcelain, expensive materials) of the princesses.

Next stop was the Ananda Samakhom Throne Hall.

This huge ornate Italinate building has a spectacular interior, but it's generally only open to the public once a year, on Children's Day (the second Saturday in January). The decoration inside is as fine as any European palace although there are small Thai touches throughout.

Ananda Samakhom Throne Hall

I was ogling on how it was built. The place was regal, grand and majestic in all sense of it. My neck was hurting the whole time I was staring at the paintings decorating the walls. Boy, if only I have a camera. The inside resembles that of century old churches in Europe, but embedded with gold and all precious stones you can think of. The whole place was carpeted. It houses all the gifts the royal family received from every Thailand’s provinces in different celebration.

This is what it looks like inside. Courtesy of Google.

Inside all the establishments we’ve been, cameras are not allowed. Foot wears are left at the door and at times, we are required to wear a wrapped skirt.

Other things seen within the Dusit area are..

The Royal Carriages

Of course, the royal tuktuk

Abhisek Dusit Throne Hall

We were a bit apprehensive to take the public bus when we saw rallies just outside the Dusit area. The parliament is beside the Dusit area, that's why. And I never thought there were Yellow Shirt demonstrators. I only know Red shirts. We were glad there were no commotion at the time.

Yellow Shirts outside the Parliament

We finished our tour early. We just decided to kill the time at a market near Grand Palace. Of course, eating Pad Thai was in the plan. Leah is sick from all the food we have been eating and is badly craving for sinigang. So, one seafood Pad Thai for me.

Pad Thai

We were supposed to go to Khao San Road that night but figured it was too far from we are staying so we hit the Pratunam night markets near the Baiyoke Towers. We just went out to see the city at night. Bargains and food stalls were all out. The streets were remarkably alive.

Asahi. A brand of beer.

Half full? Half empty?

Merry Christmas

I didn't had dinner that night. I was hoping to get a decent meal at a nearby Chinese restaurant but the food tasted ugh. Thank God for 7-eleven. Ice cream for dinner.

Our last day was our shopping day! We went to Pratunam market for some pashminas. We had lunch at Pantip plaza which is a five story IT plaza. SLRs were so cheap. If only I had the money. Hoarded durian chips, bought souvenirs and stuffs at Platinum Mall. And spent the rest of our stay loitering inside Siam Paragon. By the way, their food court rocks.

Durian chips for Leah

lunch at A&W in Pantip Plaza

Boom box

Siam Paragon Food Court

Siam Paragon Supermarket

Siam Ocean World

Platinum Fashion Mall

Eclairs

We went back to our hotel where our taxi, which will take us to the airport, is waiting for us. It's only eight in the evening and our flight back home is at midnight. Plenty of time to spend in the airport.

25 November 2010

SEA trip is almost over. We're just killing time here at Siam Paragon. What a mall! And, I've noticed, Thais do know how to dress. Even school uniforms look good.

We now head to the airport. Mixed emotions. Feeling a bit unhappy because of the thought of this trip ending and excited as well coz we're about to go home. Sinigang, finally! It felt good hearing Tagalog again, other than me and Leah speaking, as soon as we lined up in the check in counter. Pinoys! Kababayan!

So, there goes our last leg of our trip. Bangkok. In a nutshell.